Sole-sewing machine



(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 1. L. GODDU.

SOLE SEWINGMAGHINE.

11%. 381,817. Patented May 4, 1897.

mun lllllllllll gr? H k ummmnmmg g h I I V 111 I H" l I Tm " @MMM. "4Q

(No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 2,

L 'GODDU. SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 581,817. Patgnted May 4, 18971 9 Sheets- 81192153.

. (IIowlVIodeL). I

L. GODDU. SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

P'a tented May 4,1897.

[No Model.) 9 sheets-sheath. L. GODDU.

SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 581,817. Patented May 4,1897.

(N0 Mpdeh) 9 Sheets-'Sheet7.

L. GODDU. SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 581,817. Patented May 4, 189' 7: xiii/M 7 /7 /7 5 /77/7772! 9 Sheets-Sheet 8 (No Model.)

LGODDU. SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Patented May 4,1897.

lHlllllll! (Nd Model.) 9Sheets-Sheet 9. -L. GODDU.

SOLE SEWING MACHINE.

;a,tented May 4, 1897.

4 I UNITED LOUIS eo'nnu, or WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR Tt)JAMEQNV;

- BROOKS, TRU$TEE,- or PETEBSHAM,"MASSACHUSETTS;

SOLE-SEWlNG MACHINE.

srnermcnrlon' forming part of Letters reti itis 581,817, dated-trays; feet. Lppllcation lilad April 1896. Serial No:i5B7,l83r (No model.)

' 1T0 LuZZ whom it may concern: n

' Be it known that 1', Lotus Goons, of Wincliester,-county.'of Middlesex, aud'State of Massachusetts, have inven'ted'an Improve- 5 meat in Sole-Sewing Machines, of which the following-description,i-n-connection withthe' accompanying drawings," is a specification, like letters and'fignr'es on the drawingsrepresenting like, parts. T

r o This invention relates to shoe-sewing 'machines,iand particularly to machines of that general class adapted to unite the outers'ole ,tothewelt of what is commonly knownas Melted boots and shoes'by the interlocking 1.5 of two threads, forming the usual lock-stitch. My improved machine hereinafter to be described has a rotary shuttle which is driven continuously, but at a variable speed, the saidshuttle having a loose face-v plate, on

a portion of which the shuttle-thread lies,

' and cooperating with the face-platel have provided a thread' measuring and loekin g de-' vice which in one position acts upon andpulls 1 a" portion of the shuttle-thread from the cop in the shuttle, to be used in the-next stitch, mud in its other position the device locks the shuttle-thread, preventing its delivery. The

' position within the work' of "the interlocking portion of the threads forneaoh" stitch is. thus determinedtby or through'the shuttle-thread, a-predetermined. length thereof being'.meas- :dispensed with both the variable measuring T-ured ordrawn 0E prior to the formation of each stitch irrespective of the'thickness'o'f the work, the needle-thread accommodating itself. to such variationinthickness.

measured is lockedduring the completion of 1 the stitch formation, so that'theinterlocking portions of the two loops of th read'will always needle-hook.

The shuttle-thread after it has been drawn ofior needle by a loopercooperating with a thread'- thread directly into the. I r

' v p'a'rm'i nas-nf yi s t erlsrs i HI have herein shown the device for measuring the 'shu tt le thread as-a finger supported independently of the shuttle, means being,

provided to move said finger at the propertime and also to brin a step into position to act upon and lock said thread" lying on the face-plate of the shuttle; I have also pro-, vided a take-n-pto give up to the shuttlesnffioient needle-thread to be passed aboutit and thereby interlocked with the shuttle-thread in usual manner, said take-up having thereon a tension device'to act upon the thread at all. times, yet permitting an excess of needlethread to be'drawn oif for the formation of '65 the stitch whenever required by the thick-*- ness of the work; 1 The shuttle and the means'for giving it the requisite movement herein shown and die-"- scribed are of n QW; as will hereinafter appears v I In sewing-machines for sewing outer soles or welts it h'as usually been customary and considered necessary to employ a measuring device to act on the needle-thread and auto- .matically take-from the needle-supply a varying quantitybfthread sufiicient' for the thickness of the material at the stitch next to be made, and then saidthread islocked and held while the take-up acts to take up the 8o loop and complete the stitch.

In my improved machine I have entirely and locking devices for the needle-thread,"--

and instead I'supply thread from the wax-pot '85 give up the;necessaryamountof thread to complete thestitch, and in both these move ments the .ihread' 'is taut without any-slack' i-ioe between the shea'veand the-work, "The tali' el and peculiar construction, 9 7o the purpose of thread guides, the thread 'being at all times tautbetween the said sheaves.

, The arm is shown as pivoted, and-the sheave vof my invention.

or guide nearest its pivotal end is so located that in the forward movement of the take-up to give up thread for thestitch to be made it will act on the needle-thread between the arm and the wax-pot and pull thread from the wax-pot sufficient for material of the greatest thickness. H

Providing the take-up arm with a f rictionally-held sheave is a matter of very great llllport-ance, andwhile I prefer to mount said sheave near the free end of the said arm it will be understood that it may be mounted on any part of the said arm and yet operate as herein provided for and be within the scope By giving out'and taking up the thread wholly by movement of the take-up, while the latter moves the thread, all devices over which the thread has heretofore been drawn in such-action are dispensed with and the thread is .not subjected to wear and strain over devices which deflect it from a straight line pull, nor is the thread flattened or crushed bylocking it.

it is a great desideratum in sole-sewingmachines'Wh-ere the seam has to be made in close quarters, as in the shank, that the parts for manipulating the thread be arranged in the most compact space possible. To effect this, I have provided a narrow work-sup'port, and above and close to it I have arranged a circularly-movin g shuttle of peculiar construction, it-having its'periphery beveled from its back and front to an edge which is substantially at'the median line of the shuttle or at the middle in the direction of its thickness, the

' point of the shuttle-hook lyingalittle to one to the front and back of the shuttle. shuttle has a deep circular non-continuous side. of said median-line and branching toward its base or root in opposite directions The groove entirely within its body, in which the point of the hooked needle normally stands, with its end substantially at the median line of the shuttle, and the needle is moved forward from its normal position to engage the needle-thread just after the heel of the shuttie passes the needle leaving aclear space in front ofthe latter. The shuttle at that time is moving at its slowest speed and the needle enters the stock, engages the needlethread and pulls it through the material, and

holds it j-ustin the path ofthe point of the shuttle hook as the latter arrives inv the rotation of the shuttle into position to enter the needle-loop, the breast of the shuttle-hook being of such shape as to cooperate with the rearside of the loop and lift the thread from the heck of the needle. The loop having been discharged from the needle, the point of the latter again enters and stands in the groove in the body of the shuttle.

Various other features of my invention'will be hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

Figure lis a front elevation, partially broken out, of a sole-sewingmachine embody ing my invention, the lower part of the supporting-standard being'omittcd. Fig. l is a detail sectional view, taken on the line w m, Fig. 1, of the feed-regulatingmechanism to be described. Fig. 2 is a top or plan view of the machine shown in Fig. 1, the balance-wheel and clutch being partially broken out to show I the construction more clearly. vertical sectional'view taken on the line 00' 00, Fig. 1, looking to the right, with the oil-cup. omitted. Fig. 3? is a transverse sectional detail on the line 0: :0 Fig. 3, of the tension device on the take-up lever, enlarged. Fig. 3 shows details of the tension device and its support. Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional View on the line 00 as, Fig. 2, looking to the left. Fig. 5 is an, enlarged perspective vie-w of the awl and awl-segment. Fig. 6 isasirnila-r view of the needle, needle-segment, and'needlehook-guard. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the needle and awl segments in'position side by side. Fig. 6 is,- a perspective detail of the stop for the needle-guard. Fig. 7, on an enlarged scale in front elevation, shows the shuttle, work-support, and presser-foot, the needie and awl being retracted,the shuttle-thread being locked, and theshnttle moving at its slowest speed. Fig. 8 is a like view of the sti t ch-form ing devices, the presser being omitted, the awl being shown as in and having Fig. 3 is a fed the work, the shuttle having beenmoved forward a short distance inthe direction of the arrow 8; Fig. 9, a similar view, but showing the needle as entering the work and'about to have the loop of needle-1.11 read placed within its hook or barb by the looper. Fig. 10

shows more clearly the movement of the nee-,

die-thread by the looper, the latter having passed to the rear of the needle- Fig. 10 is a side view of the parts shown in Fig. 10 with the looperat two points in its path of move thread, a fixed or measured length of the lat- "ter having been drawn olhas will be described,

and locked from further delivery until the stitch is completed. Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the looper detached. Fig. 14 is a transverse sectional view of the shuttle and its cop support or case, taken on the line 2 Fig. 11. Fig. 15 is a side elevation or edge view of the shuttle, looking toward the looptaking point. Fig. 1G is a detail view in elevation of the shuttle-actuating device. Figs.

l7 and 18 are developments of the -faces of Fig.' 20 is a detacheddetail viewin' elevation of the presser-controlling mechanism; Fig.

21 is a detached perspective view ofthefinger or device. for measuring and locking the shuttle-thread. Fig. 22 is aplanview-of the wax-pots. Fig.23 is a rear elevation of the shuttle. Fig. 24& is a diametral section thereof on the line so 00 Fig. 23,1'ooking to the left. Fig. 25 is a similar section on the line :0 :19, Fig. 23. Fig. 26 is an edge view of the shuttle shown in Fig. 23, looking in the direction of the arrow 226; and Fig. 27 is asimilar View lookingin thedirection of arrow 227-.

Referring to. Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the head or frame A, of suitable shape to sustainand provide bearings for the operative parts of the machine, is mounted upona suitable standard or column A7 said head having bearings A for a main shaft 13, to which, as best shown in Fig. 2, is rigidly secured, by a suit-able setscrew 2, a fly or balance-wheel B, having secured to or forming apart of it one member,

as 13 of a preferably coned-frietion clutch,

the other member B of the clutch, loose on the said shaft, being shown as adapted to receive' a belt or band to be continuously rotated, the clutch members being norm ally separated by a spring S in usual manner. (Shown only-in Fig. 2.)

Between the'hub '13 of the movable clutch member and the adjacent bearing A is in-- serted a sleeve B, having serrated or cam.

facesto engage suitable corresponding'camfacesA secured to or forming a part of the bearing.

Partial rotation of the sleeve B by means of a link- B operated by a suitable treadle (not shown) and connected at is upper end to an arm B of the sleeve, throws the clutch into operative position, release of the treadle permitting. the spring S to throwthe clutch out of operation. 1

The head A has in its upper front portion a long bearing, a portion of which is shown at A to receive therein a shaft or, bored out loi'igitudinally at one end (see dotted lines, Fig. 1) to receive therein a spring 8, held in place by a threaded nut a screwed into the outer end of the bearing A tending to normally press the said shaft a to the right (viewing Fig. 1) against the cam-shaped end a of a vertical shaft a mounted in an upright hearing A of the head, said shaft at? having at its" upper end aysuitable handpiece a by which it may be turned more 'or less to pre sent different portions of its cam end a to contact'with the end of the longitudinallymovable'shaft a.

Preferablythe upper end'of the hearing .A will be graduated or provided with'a scale, as shown in Fig. 2,

I to indicate the position of the cam-stop a.

The slide-shaftahas secured thereto a suitable roller or other stud a ,-(see Fig. 3,) held against an edge-ca a on ithecam-disk' C, having a wedge sli'aped eam= portion afithereon tocontact with the stu ent roll a andthereby. move the shaft a to .theleft, Fi 1,

to effect. the feed-of the work, as will be described, the springs returning the shaft to positionagainst the stitch-regulating earn a ,1.

it being understood that the smaller the return movement of the shaftthe shorter will} be the feed and length of stitch, and vice versa.

- The shaft ahas rigidly secured thereto like I arms a", (see Figs 3 and 4,) extended for wardly th roughthe slotted open front of the r head oniranle A and provided with bosses'a? and a, adaptedteslide in bearings 25 in the head, the boss a. (shown on the left-hand-arm,

Fig. 1) beingthelarger of the two to receive the enlarged end b of a rock-shaft b,,(s ee.

Fig. 5,) which has rigidly seeuredthereto the:

awl-segment b', carrying a curved awl b, up-

t'urned'to penetrate the work from below, the

bearin a reventin lon itudinal movement b p a a ofthe shaft 1) and the parts supported there:

by in one directionfi The needle c, herein shown as curved and having an open hook or barb at one side near its end, is rigidly secured to a needle-segment i 0', having a laterally-extended hub 0 (clearly 1 shown in'Fig. 6,) the said hub being adapted to receive and turn freely upon the shaft b,

while a needle-hook guard c forms part of a:

split hub or boss 0*, frictionally secured upon the hub of theneedle-segm ent by a suitable set-screw c Thev needle-segment and hook-guard ate] mounted upon the shaft b'between the 3W1,-

' segment I) and the boss at, and consequently all of the parts carried by the arms a must move in unison laterally during the feed of the work, while the needle and awl have an oscillatory motion, given them by means to be described. a

The hub c of the hook-guard is cut. away to form a notch 0 having at one end a shoulder e, (see Fig. 6,) which engages the inturned lug c of a guard 0 (shown separately in Fig; 6",) to thereby stop the hook-guard; the said guard-stop c being attached to the boss (1. by

a suitable screw, as 20, Fig.1.

When the needle is retract-ed, the friction '6 between the guard-hub c and-the needle-segment hub 0 will carry the hook-guard back with the needle until stopped by engagement of the shoulder c and ljug c and when the needleha's completed its backward throw its hook will be covered and completely protected by the guard,'asshown in Figs. 3', 6, andti. j

'When theoneedle moves forward towardthe work, the hook-guard moves frictionall-y therewith and will ordinarily engage the work.

and will be stopped thereby, the needle continuing to move forward into the work with 7 its hook uncovered, the guard atsuchtime acting to guide the needle.

If the work should be very thin, theguard will be stopped in its for'ward' movemeut by engagement of the guard-stop with the opp'ositeend of the notch c" in the hub 0 A horizontal rod or shaft D is supported inbearings A atthe rear upperpart of the head,

(see Figs. 2.,- 3, and 4,) and the take-up and I needle and awl actuators are mounted to rock thereupon, the needle-actuator being shown as a lever d, Fig. 3, having a long sleeve like' hub d, Fig. 2, through which the-shaft D is extended, said lever having a'segment gear d thereon at its front end to engage the toothed needle-segment c,- said lever. being provided with a suitable roller or other stud d (see Fig. 3) to enter a cam groove d (shown mostly in full lines-fin Fig. ,3) in the face of the cam-disk (J, said. cam'being r0.- tated in the direction of the arrows 30, Figs. 3 and 4. I

The shape of the cam-groove d is such that the needle will be retracted to draw out the loop and be held'so that the point of the looptaker may'enter and take the loop of needlethread out of the hook of the needie, and then the part (1 9 of the groove further retracts the needle to conceal its open hook with-in the hook-guard a, it being retained in such position while the shuttle is'rotated to interlock the shuttle and needle threads, the needle remaining in such. position until the Mill has again entered the work, fed it forwardnud begun its withdrawal. This concealment or covering-of the point of the hook obviates any possibility of the needle-thread catching against the hook of the needle; fraying or wearing it as the needle-thread is passed about the shuttle in the formationof the stitch. i

Referring now to Figs. 2 and 4, an arms,

having an elongated sleeverlike hub re, loose upon the shaft D, is provided at its front end with a toothed segment a to engage the teeth of the-awl-carrying segment b to impart the proper oscillatory motion to the awl, said leface of a cam-diskE, fast on the main shaft,-

ver having a suitable roller or other stud e thereon to enter a cam-groove e in the inner whereby the awl is oscillated at the proper time to enterand reoede' from the work, the said hubs d. ande being located at opposite sides of the take-11p, t0 be described.

"The work r-est is shown as an upturned por- Fo'f the head, preferably rounded at its a. per endand formiugat f anacute or beve ed edge toienterbetween the weltand the upper as the work is supported, it being understood that the boot or shoe is held upside down upon the work-rest with the outer-sole uppermost.

The needle-thread t, Fig. v3, is led from the take-up about a guidesheave fat the lower end of the work-support and thence along the longitudinal groove f formed iii-the outer faoeof the said work-supportand flaredor enlarged at the upper .end, the work-support being cut away at f, as shown best in Figs.

' 7 to 10, inclusive, to leave a downwardly-inolinededgefi, extending acrossthe plane of 7 also passing through said opening fto 968? trate the work from below. 7' a The work-support is preferably recessed near its lower end, and a spring-hook f is lo cated therein, about which the thread is passed to aid in keeping it taut as it passes up over'the outer side of. the work-support.

should there be anyirregularity in thembyevment of the take-u p.

The looperl (shown separately in Fig. 13) is notched atl at its upper .ofiset end to eugage the thread, and it'is attached, to an arm Z, extended up within the hollow works s11 port F and rigidly secured to a rock-shaft boss or hub-like hearing A, (see Fig. 1,) ex

tended laterally from the lower part'gf. the

work support. I The rock-shaft l is provided with an arm 1,

upon which is mounted a roller 1*, held byav spring .9" againstan edge cam Z on the pieri-phery of the cam-disk 0, (see Figs. 2 and 1,9 and dotted lines, Fig. 3,) the raised 1 if-$11.1

rotatable and longitudinally movable in 11- of the cam acting upon the rolleritoeoek the shaft ii, and thereby move the loops! rearwardly from the front of, the workesuppol't, to thereby carry the needle-thread 15 back past the path of the needle.

The hub of the arin 1 has a stud i= i with 3? roll Z (see Fig. 1 and dotted lines, Fig. 3) at right angles to the roll 1 and held by the spring 3 in engagement "with a face eamlon the outer face of the disk 0, as shown in Fig. 19; The raised portion 1 ofthe cam moves the looper to the right, viewi-ng F-ig. 7 into position to meet the needle-thread; "and .IIO

thereafter the looper is moved to one sided the are of the needle-path, as in dottedliues,

Fig. 10*, so that the needle when it descends may pass between the looper and the inclined thread-guide. f with the threada-t the barbed side of the needle.

While the needle remains in the work,

in Fig. 10, the part Z of cam Z moves looper to the rear, and at the same time it moved to the left back of the needle, so that the thread is .drawnidowu the inclinedthreadguide f into the open hook of the-needle, which rises as the looper returns to its normal position near the front .of the worksupport. The movement .of the looper tot'he rearv and left hand, described, also seryes to measure or draw off a sufliicient'longth Ofthread as :it is given up by the take up to form one side of theloop, the looper thencthe latter rises into position to have its 1009 removed by the point of the loop-.taker--or shuttle, thus completing the other side of after giving up .the. thread to the needle ,ns

shuttle asses through the loop thereof; This g off of thethread by the .looper re,

'dra'win 5' vents reading To! the thread through the needle-hook as the latter. rises-a point'of the utmost importance in a machine running at high speed, for the rendingo'f the threadin the needle-hook will fray or 'b'reak' i't. j

A presse'r P, to be more fully described heret'naifter, clamps the wor firmly u on the voila-{support asthe airl b ascends there- ;thjrongh; releasing the work when the work jili'bo be fed forward by-the lateral movement rolle afl-tas-has been described, and then again elamping'the work as the awlis withdrawngand the needle 0 comes forward to enter fl'16 -8W1t ld8. tl(1' eceive its loop of zonieedlethrad; f

Above'the work support the head is'out away. tqffqrm,' a --nea r ly circular recess .9 to -4 receive therein thejshuttle eontin uously w, tated atv'ariable speed. ,(Shownin section in 2'5 Figs. Salad-4; and on a larger scale in Figs. 1.4 and and Figs. 23 to 27,' ine1nsive.)

The shuttle hereinshown isdiscoidal in shape, having a closed substantially circular end or bottom It and annular side Walls h? It'd-of the Body flaring oppositely, hollowed out interior] from near iheheel to near the point orbea of the shuttle (se'e'Figs. 14, 24

an'd'25} to reduce w ight.

5 the axis of .the "shuttle, is termed on therpes ,rip'heryof the flarin g side walls-,the inner and .ou'ter 'faees of the flange forming bearingsurfaces to support th'e'shuttlejn its rotation -5 edgeof the-flange h, as shown 0 a circular groove on the rear side of the shuttle ii'ithin theplane ofthe-end h.

' .A preferablyeoniealstud h is erected .on'

the innersi'de of-the end h of the shu ttle and a circular case It for the bobbin or' cop of:

5- to!" of theface-plate h of the shuttle.

r oils best shown in Fig-14, the face-plate W is circular in term and isg-provided 'w'ith an fnturned'li'p' or'flange h to snap overorhng the cylindrical wall 'of the cop -'case' 10, the faceplate-forming theremovable end for the shuttle. The-- i ace-platefis "thus. retained in place when. --i'n operative pesition relative to the -shuttle,lth e' latter rotating while the cop- "will be described.

. 'A.s;shown in Figs. 7 to 12; inclusive, and-in .t Fig. 14,'the face-plate h is th ckened or en'- 'shuttle thread t.

oiroumferehee of- -the face-plate of tholawl dhe. to the-wedge a acting on the actuator h, to be described.

' the bottom "or end-h extending'beironil-the: the hook-of the needle.

ear y, m

Figs. 14, 15, and to 27; inclusive; toprovide face-plate are held slationary,'fasllarg' ed diametrically to form a rib h on its outer side. url- 8's radial 11018 or pa leadi'hg from its inner face at or near the 0611- 7 fer to its outer face near its periphery for the A groove h" on the exterior of the rib leads from the outer d of the gassage h"-to and through a nose or extension of said rib; said nose projecti'n beyond the v 1%, as clearly shown in; the. drawings, the shuttle-thread being delivered through the nose h. 4 The rib his cut away at h transversely toand Intersection; the thread-guide h" to c0- operate wlthihe thread measuring or draw- 1ng-off device, which acts upon the shuttlethread at the. point-Where :it crosses the re- ,eessh -and depresses it; therein,--one e'h'd of the threadhe-ing-heTd'hy the work, so that a predetermined 'length'of thread is drawn elf from the cop, as will be described, to provide the requisite shuttle thread for the next stitch.- 4

The body of theshuttle and tthe flgnge h 9 are cut avifay et h S for the entrance. of, the

One end of the flange It thus cut away is inwardlybeveled 'd hm gradually from the part h' or the side "d sh and reduced longitudinally in Width (see Figs. 14;, 15, 26, and 27,) to form a hook or 1oop-taker,the gradual increase in'w'idth-from thepoint k 0i the hooktothe full width of the flan ge h. along-the edge-h acting to spreadthe loop then in the hook of the needle, while mo the upwardly. and; in wardly inelinededge h of..the-s'ai d hook, forming the heart, acts to spread the loop of needle-thread-as the shuttle continues to rotate in the direction of the ar row, Fig. 1'1,"to thereby remove the loop-from r05 As the shuttle =oon- .t-iuues tomove insuehdireetion after having thus removed the loop or needlethread fromthe needle the latter wilLlJIeiirithdr awn by its actuating mechanism into the positionure shown in Fig 3, with'its hook concealed, and .the loop' ofneed-l'e-thread is. carried around the shuttle to'be interlocked with the portion of shuttle-thread which has been previously measured off. When the hooker loop-taker r15 arrives at the position-shown in Fig. 1'2, the

:loop of needle-thread is almost drawnoiffr om ?-the shuttle by the take-up; the me'asured'portion of shuttle-t1: read passing therethrou'gh being at such time slack: and looked, as will-.120 bedes'cribed, so that noimorecan be drawn from the cup or bobhin-'for that stitch, the

measuring and tsubsequen't'lockin'g of the shuttle-thread preferably 'beingefiected only: after the outer sideof the. loop of needle-n25 thread has passed ever'the shuttle '-thread support on the face-plate. As theloop of needle-thread is drawn down into the workW it will interlock with the'measured or fixed length'of. shuttle-thread t, and the interlocked 1 3o 'or'tion of-the two-"loops, as t", will bedrawn gnto the work' a certain distance below its u ensurfade .or the bottom of a channel made herein, saidd'ista'nce beln g regulated by the 6 i "new length of the shuttle thread measured or drawn-off A yoke y, Figs: 1, 2,ai1d'4', has a shank y" extended into a hole in the face ofthehead A above and at one side of the center of the hoe tie, the. yoke being held in adjusted positiOn by a set-screw y engaging the shank (see dotted lines, Fig. 2,) the yoke providing bearings for a roeking'shaft r. This shaft has to fast thereon a gear r and collars 1 and 2 and an enlarged lower end terminating in a finger 7*, which is adapted'to at times engage the shuttle-thread't' and depress it into the recess h in the faceleteof the shuttle, thus drawing from the cop 0r bobbin a length of thread corresponding to the exten't of movement of the finger into the recess.

The end of the shaft-r is shaped somewhat as the thumb and finger of the human hand,, the part 1' corresponding to the forefinger, and the part r9, corresponding to the thumb, is adapted to be moved into position by oil1ation-.ofthe shaft rte positivelyengage the shuttle-thread t and hold or look it from 2 5 movement. As herein shown; the stop r i brought tightly against the' thread as it emerges from the passage h in the face-plat h as the take-up is completing the stitch-,zas will be desoribed,.to lock-the shuttle-thread go'from being 'at such time drawn off from the cop or bobbin."

A rod 'r is mon nted to slide horizontally in a" hearing A, said 'rod having at its-frontend a rack r to engage the teeth of gear 0*; a springs"! 5 surrounding the rod between its bearing and a nut 4*, adjustable on the red, the spring tending to retract the rod r and thereby'tu-rn the. shaft 7' to relieve the pressure of the stop r upon the shuttle-thread, unlocking the lat- 4o ter' 0r actuating the measuring-finger. The

slide-rod is pivotally connected at r to at bellcrank lever 1 the sleeve-like hub r of which is mounted to rock .on the laterally-extended hub m of the take-up-actuating arm-m, said bell-crank lever r, having thereon 'a roll 1' held in engagemenjt yriththe periphery of the arn-disk E, said earn-disk, as shown in dotted I lines,Fig.j4, hating a depression 1* therein for a'portion' of its length-to receive-the roll,

therehy'permitiing the springs to mote therack i Tfo'partiall y turnjthe shaft r and move the fingeriagainst 'theshn ttle-th-read to'draw,

' omen-" d portion from the shuttle. The stopr" and its aetuating-Imechanism- 5 f o'i a'. b'c'ibhin-thread-locking device for the pyipqs'e herinbefore described. I 1 3111 order to adjust or vary the length of shirtfist-thread measured or drawn ofl', Ihave pr o sided an adjustable detent r (see Figs. 2and- 6o for a roll 'r' .on the slide-rod 0*, adj ustably secu red by sect-screw any suitable part of the machine and'lierein shown as mounted on a pawl-actuating leye To draw oil? a smaller length ofshnttle-thre'ad. 65 the detent r is set so that the slide-rodr" i will not have the fiill'throw permitted by he depression 1* of the cam, which depression 1' 17 to be described? determines the greatest amount which can be measured or drawn off. The slightly depressed portion r of the cam retains the stop I and the measuring-finger away from or out of contact with the thread, to thereby allow the loop'of needle-thread to pass between them and the face-plate and until the interlocking portions of the loops of needle and shuttle thread are to be drawn into the work by the loop-taker, at which time the low part of the cam'perlnits the spring 8 to operate the meas-. tiring-finger r, and then high part r. of the cam acts upon the roll r to move the slide-rod 'r positively to cause the thread to be locked.

As the measured portion of shuttle-thread is always of the same predetermined length for each and every stitch "it follows that the. interlocked portion 5* of each and every stitch will be located within the'vrork at --su-bs'ta-ntially the same. distance from its outer surface. In this instance the upper surface is the bottom surface of the outer sole of the finished shoe, any inequalities in the thickness of the work being accommodated by the needle-thread. The needle, after the loop of needle-thread has been removed therefrom, is'retraoted into the position shown in Fig. 3, withits point-between and the flange h and the adjacent wall of the shuttle, while the hook-guard o covers the opening ofthehook'.

Ab'o ve the shuttle-recess g, as herein shown a circular groove or race-g is formed in-the we face of the head A to receive the flange h of the shuttle to sustain it in position to be retated, a curved retaining-plate 9 secured to the head by suitable screws 9*, projecting over the part h of the side wall of theshuttle. m 5

' Referring to Figs.- 3, and at, a .shaft h is supported in bearings in the head and extends forward into the recess g behlnd-thcrshuttle, said shaft having at its front end a laterally extended ar n 1h, upturned on flang d at h'- 1 10 .(see. Fig. 17) t o enter the'cut -away portion h of the shuttle-body and its 'flangc hto actuate said shuttle'as the she 1: I1? is rotated It will be seen-in Fig. 3 th to the loop of 'he edle-thread can pass readily areund the n5 shuttle'an'd between it and-the arm h"- ofthe :shnttle-actuator, as in Figs12, the shaft 71- having fast thereon a gear h in'mesh with an intermediate smaller gear k rotatably mounted on a stud on" the head, said inter 12omediate in "turn meshing with a larger gear hfifaston a shaft it, (see Fig. 2,)- mounted in a long bearing A above and at right angles to the main shaft B. At its rear end the hub of acircul'ar shafth, said gear having, as herein shown, fifteen spirally-arranged teeth h Varying slightly in singularity, asshown' in the devel-- topmentithereofl'Fig. 17, tqniesh withthe pe- I Iiarly.-.arranged teeth-of'a, larger circular I30 gear h", mounted on the shaft 13 an shown as. secured b screws 'h to the cam-d sk E.

f Theteeth of the gear hidifier in length 911191111 snlarity,- the longer teeth',-otlesserprotected by gear h" is secured to the 12 serving toprevent undue bowing and snarlangularit'y, producing a slower rate of speed in rotating the gear it, while the shorter teeth, of greater angle, produce a higher rate of speed, the'speed of rotation of the said gear h being variable in consequence, and this variation of speed is transmitted by the intermediate train of gears to" the shuttle, so that the latter-,while continuously rotating in the'same direction, will "move faster at;

some times than at other times. The machine may thus be run at a very high speed I without detriment, as there is no inertia to be overcome, .nor shockfand jar, as inthe case of an oscillatory shuttle, the shuttle in my present inyention making one complete rotation'f o'r each stitch." I

While the awl and the needle are moving one after another to enter the work the shut- 'Fig'. 7 and rotating tle is rotating at its lowest speed, its hook or point being 'in abou't the position show in p in the direction of arrow 7 until the needles, with the loop of thread t, is withdrawn from the work, as in Fig. 11,

ready to have the point It enter-the lop, From this point'the shuttle moves Wit increasing speed to spread the loop, the latter being passed around the shuttle and shuttlethread while the shuttle attains its] highest speed, the'speed decreasing to the minimum thereafter.- I v The curved plate 9 which retains the sh uttle' in place, is provided with a lug or projeo 1 vtio'n g at 'one'side of and adjacent the nose Ihofthe face-plate, and a wing orauxiliary Plate 52 is secured by a suitable yn to the plate.'g?- at the opposite-side of-the nose to' prevent the face-plate from rotating with Y the shuttle, yet without interfering with the thread.

loop of needle-thread as it is earried'laroupdor released from the shuttle, said wing also in of the loop as it is cast err from the shuttle.

' When the loop is being drawn down to the work after it leaves the shuttle, it sometimes tends to whip against the shuttle-tdread, but the nose k iu'm'y present invention takesupthe-blow of the loop and protects the shuttle;

Between the sleeyedikehubs-d and e on the shaft '1) is clamped, by a set-s rew '(0 or in other suitable manner, the'tak -up lever m; shown in Fig. 3 as bent betweenits ends andhaving'secu'red thereto adjac nt its'fulcru=|n a toothed segmentm, in e gagement with the teeth of a segmental gear m of an armm fast on a. rock-shaftM; said rockshaft having fast thereto aseco (1 arm 'm (see. dotted lin'es,-Fig. 3;) provi ed with" a roller or-other stud m to enter a cam-groove I60 m, (shown in full lines'in' the fac of the cam disk or hub 0,) rotation of the la ter rocking the shaft M, and thereby'the'take-uplever, to

swing its 'free en d forward andjap ward as the loop of needle thread is'ca'r'ried aroundthe shuttle and tothereafter withdraw the. takeup into the position shown-in Fig. 3 to tighten the Stitch, The needle thread is drawn from a' suitable wax-pct P, ad jace t the said-takeup, the thread .[lassing froi lltv through aclamp or tension de a spring .9 on the take-up nea thence around' suitable groov g and m on the .lever m, to an ice, (shown as its fulcrum) sheaves m completely around a tension-thread sheave in, mounted in' the free end of the take-up, from which the thread passes to the guide-sheavff and the stitch-forming devices-describ: d.

the wax pot An enlarged sec ional viewof the tensionsheave is shown in Figs. 3 and 3", wherein a stud, m projecting from the outer face ofthe take-up lever m, passes through the hub. ofthe li ht sheave-n, The arm m has upon-its side about-the stud m a series of concentric rings or'projections m7, and the adjacent face'of the sheave has a like series of rings or projections m arranged to enter the spaces between the tings on the arm and between these faces Ihave arranged a suitable washer w?. The ri s or projections add materially in supporti g the sheave on the arm and reduce the st'ra n thereof on. the-stud m Upon the out r threaded end of the stud is screwed a nn-tm,

ha'vin g ratchet-teeth thereon, to be engaged,

by a suitable spring-detentn to prevent a'c- ,cid'ental rotation of the nut, the. detent being carried, asshown in Fig. 3,- on an armm, secured to the take-up lever, and havinga hole therein through which the stud' is passed, a second friction-washer 10 bein in terposed between the said arm m andfhe hub of the sheave, all of the parts weigh n g ver'ylittle to reduce the eifcct of momentum 5 By screwingthenut n up more or-l'ess tightly the friction upon; the sheave n is regulated towyield more or less freely to the strain of the thread, the detent 'n maintaining the ten sion' adjusted. I It will-be seen frouiFig. 3 that the thread between the clamps and the tension-sheave .is always maintained taut and so prevented from flying about in the-movement of the take-up, orfromcatching-inanyof the adja cent parts of themechanism. The tension ofthe sheave n having-been'adjusted on the .forward movement of the take-up, a quantity of thread will be drawn from the wax-pot P, more than sufficient to provide for-the next stitch, and as the take-up in its'return movement draws the thread taut, if the thickness 'of the work should require. more than the average quantity of needle-thread drawn ofi,

.the excessrequired will draw from the slack between the wax-pot and clamp, 5 the sheave turning the neeessary/ amount;

No matter how r'a idly the machine may be run it' 'is l npossi e for the thread on the take-up 'to becomeldisplacedor caught in adjac'entparts, and by making the devices'atthe end of'thelong take-up lever very light I am enabled to overcome the effects of mnmentum thereupon. a

It will be evident from an inspection of Fig. 3 that the'thread is-fme between the ten-1,

sion-sheave n and the work-support, and the tension-sheave being located at or near the extremity ofthe take-up lever m I am enabled to make a long throw or stroke of the latter take the place of a short throw and intermediate multiplying devices.

With the long throw, if the take-up lever. and parts carried by it should be heavy, the

momentum would be so great that .it would and ' wax-pot when winding a cop or bobbin, and

' P. So, too,

it is therefore desirable to be-enabled'toturn 1 oflf the heatin'gymedium from said wax-pot when not in use, and'for its purpose I have inserted in the branch pipejp asuita'bl'e valve at 1;, so that such pet can be disconnected from the exhaust independently of the pots in order to cut ofi the-needle- 1 thread wax-pot P, I haveinterposed a valve when desired from the exhaust. v

'v in the-branch p, so that it can be'cut-olf 1 A common union-inlet p connectsthe front endsjnof the wax-pots, and a pipe'p leads thereto from a hollow curved heater p, having a plane'outer face,- against which the takeup lever slides in order to maintain the thread soft on its way to the stitch-forming devices, Fig. 3 showing clearly the proximity of the thread to the'heate'rp 'between the tensionsheave 'n and the guide-sheave f whenv the take-up is retracted,the front end of the heater I ing medium thereto after 12 eitend'ing 'up to the'base of the work-sup por j a Referring now to Fig. 1, thefront of the head A is provided with a duct or passage p, v (seedotted lines,) connected at its lower end bya pipep to the upper front end of the heater p to conduct the steam or otherheatpassing through the head adjacent the stitch-formingdevices, said duct=or passage p passing through the rear'of the Work su'pport and near therecess taintjhe latter heated, the

in which the. bobbin-carrier moves to mainpipe. 15 serving-to conduct the live steam to the head. Referring now'to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the head of the machine-is upturned at A and longitndinallyslotted to receive therein a slide-- block p normally depressed by a sprin g 8 controlled as to its tension by a-snitable. nut

@1 (shown only in 'Figsgl and 2,) said slidethereto the.

block having securely bolted A presser-foot or presser P. The slide-block extends throu ghthe bearing A at the rear, as

'on two sets 10 and p (seeFig. 19

shown in Figs. 2 and 3, and has formed thereof oppo sitely-inclined or reversed ratchet teeth in vertical alinem out with each other 006 rating, respectively, with two pawls p? p e com- 'centrically mounted on a stud 500 in the slotted pawi= -carrier p rigidly secured to a horizon tal i'ockwhaft N, m minted in bearings A of the head, said rock-shaft, as shown in;

Figs. 2 and 4, having fast thereon a lever p provided with a roller or other stud p hto enter a face cam-groove p in the cam-disk: E,

ascle'arly shown in Fig. 4, the shape of the groove being such that the fpresser'willbe positively lifted during the ceding of. the work by the awl by the part of the cam be:-

tween the points 200 and 201 and thereafter depressed byits spring and held clamped upon the work between the points 201and 202, while the needle descends through the work and is retracted, after which the lock on the presser-is released until theawl is about to enter the work, as between the points 2.02 and 203 of the cam, atwhich time the presser is againclampedor locked positively up'onthe work between the points 203 and '200 of the. cam. The two pawls p and p are oppositely extended to engage with one or other of the series of ratchet-teeth p or 10 EA shield 90,- fixed on a part of the main frame, covers more orless of the teeth 10, according to the thickness of the work,.s o that when the pawl-carrier p?- is raisedyit having-a constant throw, the presser will always be raised thesame distanceabove the work no matter what the thickness ofthe lattor, for the thicker-the work the lowerdewm upon' the ratchetwillthe pawl-p engage, as"

more of the teeth will be uncovered b the shield in such cases,and vice versa. l hen groove p the pawl p will. engage the first uncovered tooth of the r'atchetp, said ratchet the pawl-carrier descends, due to the cam-"10 also having a shield 92 projecting from the main frame to lock the presser positively upon the work, the spring s being moreor less compressed, according to the thickness 0f the work.

When the work is thick, the pawl 12 will not in its downstroke engage a tooth of the ratchet 10 until it reaches nearly the endof its stroke, owing to the shield 92. be thinner, the pawl will on gage a tooth higher up on the ratchet, as more of the latter will beunccvered'by the shield 92. A saddle p 9, bearing equally on the two. 'pawls, is held If the work I against them by a spring-pressed pin in.

the pawl-carrier to maintain the pawls always imposition to engage a ratchet tooth of one or the other series at the proper time.

A hand-leverp is fulcrumed on the shaft N and is provided with an oilFset-toe'p to en'- gage a suitable projection p" on the slide block p 9 in orderthat the lifted by hand toinsert the work when pawls are in the intermediateiposition,the presser being'then unlocked. Toprevent any accidental catching of the presser may be loop of needIe-thread-as-ifiis carried'around the shuttle with the shuttle-thread, which to enable me to maintain a well-known and free end of the take-up le've'r-totake np'the' gear 71 on ashaft h might accidentally draw oif from'the shuttle an additional portion of thread, I have placed a guard h on and projecting from the faceplate adjacent the thread-guideh to lift the adjacent part of the needle-thread loop over the sh uttle-thread as it crosses the face-plate.

The machine forming the subject-matter of this invention is strong and positivein its operation, comprises a comparatively small number of parts, and may be run at a very high speed without destroying the positive and exact operation of all of the stitch-form ing devices. I

The teeth 71, of the gear h are in Fig. 17 indicated by a'series of small numbers from 1 to 15, inclusive, and the spaces between the teeth h of the gear hi are indicated on Fig.

mount the gear h directly on. the shuttle-.

actuator shaft, as h, (see dotted lines, Fig. 16,) theconstrnction herein used being chiefly established relation of parts which in this-instance-of my invention-I did not care to disturb;

My invention is not restricted to the precise construction and arrangements of parts herein shown and described, as it is obvious that various changes ormodifications may he made therein without departing frointhe spirit and scope ofmy invention. I

By reversing the location of .the needlehookthat is, placing it at the opposite side of the needle and rotating the shuttle in the reverse direction fromthat shown a lockstitch with a knot at the crossing willbe formed. I

The'only function of my'improved take-np is to take up the loop of needle-thread and pull needlerthread from'the waxing device,

and said take-up in no way cooperates with any measuring device or pull-off for the needle-thread to control itsdelivery, I depending wholly on the frictionally-h'eld sheave at the loop of needle-thread and give up thread held "by it as required. The'said sheave in no way rotates except in the delivery of the thread in the formation of the stitch. The movement the sheave at the free' end of the take-up leveris in a very slight br flat curve, so that the pull on the thread between the w'ork and without any sharp or other bends. The double the sheave is in a substantially straight line f pa wls are moved by one'and the same carrier, and one works as the carrier moves in one d1- motion and the other in the opposite. move ine'nt'o'i the carrier.

. 15y the'-term""length of the teeth of the spiral gears as herein mean'fhe dislance from one to the otherend of each tooth,

measured on its face in the direction of the 1 plane of rotation of the gear.

.The flange h is provided with a suitable num'ber'of apertures 'h for the-passage of,,

oil, oilzbe'in'g supplied to the race or groove in' which said flange travels from an oilcup or. reservoir i (see Fig. 1,) the stem of said'cup (see Fig. 4) entering'a threaded hole tlfl'leading to the said race or groove.

. The mechanism herein described for imparting to the shuttle continuous' rotation in" thesame direction at a variable speed is not claimed herein, as it forms-the subject+matter of another application filed by me April l1, 1896, Serial No. 587,182.

Having fully described my invention, what i v I claim as'new, and, desire to'secnre by Letters Patent, is"

1. In a sewing machine of-the class described, devices't'o form a loop of; needle thread, a shuttle containinga bobbin, an independent'cooperating measuring device, to measure a fixed quantity of shuttle-thread to be interlocked with the needle-loop, a take-up to draw the interlocked portion of said thread into the work, and ashnttle-thread lock to determine the position of the'i'nterlo ikedloops in the work, substantially as described. *2. 'In a sewing-machine of the class described, stitch-forming mechanism including a hooked'needle, a shuttle and its contained bobbin,'mea'n s independent of the shuttle to be interlocked with the needle, s ake-up, and

In a sewing-machine of the classdetoo I measure a fixed quantity-of shuttlemhread to a locking device for' the shuttle-threai-snb-f I stantially asdescribcd. 1

"scribed, stitch-forming devices, including av shnttlehaving a'bobbin,'means independent feed of the said thread atpredetermined times, substantially as described.

of the shuttle to draw off a measured quanf tity of shuttle-thread, anda-lock to prevent 4. .In a-s'ewing-machine of the class de-- scribed, stitch-forming devices, including a shuttle having a bobbin, a stationary facer15 'a transverse intersecting notch, and an "indeplate havinga'longitndinal threa'd gnide and pen dent, finger to attimes engage the shntt1ethread and depress it into the notch, to thereby draw on a measured quantity of the thread,

substantially as described.

5,. Ina. machine of. the class described;

stitch-forming devices, including a rotating -shuttle having a contained bobbin,a face'-- nal thread-guide, and a'locking device. movable toward and from the-guideyto directly plate having athread-delivery and an exter= engage and clamp the exposed sl nttle thre'ad and prevent delivery thereof at predetermined tin es, substantially as described;

6. In a machine of the class described,

stitch-foam g devices. including a shuttle having abs bin, a face 1 plate having a thread-.

gnideand an intersecting depression, and a 'connectedii'nger and stop, to alternately act'- shuttle, and a fixed' retaining device indeanda delivery-nose extended from the face-v directly'upon the-shuttle-thread, to respectively draw off a fixed quantity and to positively lock it thereafter and prevent its delivery, substantially as described.

7. In a machine of the class described, a rotatable shuttle having a contained bobbin, an independent face-plate having a depression in its face below the path of the thread,

a shaft provided with a finger to engage and 10 move a portion of the thread into said recess,

to thereby measure afixed quantity of shut- .tle thread, and means to rock the shaft at -predetermined times, to move the finger into operative or inoperative position, substantially as described.

8 Ina-sewingmachine, a shuttle, a noncontinuous circular flange projecting' rearwardly therefrom, a support for the shuttle having a curved race to receivethe flange, a continuously-rotated actuator to operate the pendent of said actuator to hold the shuttle in its race, substantially as .described.

-9.' A 'discoidal bobbin-contai hing shuttle, consisting of afixed circular end and a removable circnlarend, an intermediate annular I connecting-wall, inwardly flared from each of said ends, and a non-continuous flange extended-rearwardl y from the periphery of said wallparallelfiwith. the. shuttle-axis, substantially-as described. I

10. In a sewing-machine, a shuttle having a hook, means to rotate it, a stationary face- -'pl.ate for and independent of theis'huttle, said face-platehaving a thread passage and guide,

plate substantially to the-path of the hook of the shuttle; substantially as described.

11. In a sewing'machine, a shuttle, means to rotate it, .a stationaryface-plate for and independent'of the shuttle, havinga thread pas- I sage and guide, and a delivery-nose for the thread radiallyv extended beyond plate, substantially as described.

12. In a sewing-inachine, 'a rotatable shuttle, its support, a face-plate for the shuttle,

the facehaving athread -passage comm unicatin g with the interior of the shuttle and a thread-delivcry, and a fixed retaining device for the shut- 5Q tle, having projections to engage and prevent rotation of the face-plate, substantially as described.

13. A shuttle having an open and a closed- :ci'rcularend, .a cop or bobbin holder loosely mounted axially upon the closed end, anda detachable face-plate adapted to engage the cop-holder, said face-plate having an external rib provided with a diametrica'l thread-guide "and an intersecting depression, and a radiallyextended delivery-nose, substantially asde scribed.

. 14. In a sole-sewing machine, a work-support, having aneedle-hole, and also a threadguidein' its outer face below-thesaid' hole, the upper end of the guide terminating in an v ningin the work-support below the nee- I .ho1e,aportion of the opening g avinga downwardly-inclined edge in front of the needle-path and over which-edge the thread passes-,a curved hooked needle to enter the needle-hole, anda looper to engage the thread back of the thread-guide and between the needle-hole and the inclined edge of the guideterminal opening, to put the thread into position to be taken by the needle-hook, sub stantially as described.

15. Inasewing-machine, a rotatingshuttie, a stationary face-plate therefor having an open threadguide, a stop supported inde: pendently of the shuttle, and means to move said stop to actupon the shuttle-thread andclamp it upon'the said face-plate, substantially as described.

16. In a sewing-machine, a rotating shuttle,

a stationary face-plate therefor having an exterior recess crossed by the shuttle-thread,

a finger supported independently of the shuttle, and means to move said finger against the thread and into the recess i'nfthe face-plate, to draw oif a fixed quantity of shu ttle-thread, substantially asdescribed. a

1 17. In a sewing-machine, a shuttle. astationary face-plate having-an open threadguide and an intersectingrecess, and anindependentlysupported combined shuttlethread lock and measuring device, clamping the thread against the face-plate to loclgit,

and engaging the thread and entering the -recess to measure off a -fixed length of shuttlethread, substantially as described. I

' '18.. A discoidal shuttle, having a closed circular end, an axially-mounted cop-holder thereon, an annularswallhaving sides inwardly divergent from its periphery, a non i it-out of engagement with the shuttle-thread as the loop of needle-thread passes around the shuttle, substantially as described.

20$ In a. sewing-machine, a feeding-aw], a.

shaft upon which it is mounted and having a longitudinal recess in one end thereof, means, to positively move said shaft longituinally to eifect the feed, a spring located within said recess-to return the shaft and awl into starting position, an adjusting-shaft provided with a cam to bear against the opposite end. of the awl 'shaft, and means to rotatesaid-cam-shaft to thereb'yregulate the length of feed, substantially-as described.

21. In 'asole-sewing machine, stitch-form-' ingdevices, including an oscillating hooked needle,- a' looper cooperating therewith, a shuttle having a contained bobbin, said shuttle being movedina path at right angles to and {intersecting the needle-path, a peripheral flange at therear end of said shuttle, cut away to permit passage of the needle and having a hook at one end of said recess to enter and spread the loop of needle-thread, and a needle-guard, said needle when retracted being protected by the flangeand.

guard, substantially as described.

- 22. In a sewing-machine, a shuttle adapted to pass through a loop of thread, ;a non-continuous circular flange projecting rearwardly therefrom, but within the plane of the shuttle end, and provided with a loop-engaging hook, a shuttle-support having acurved race to receive the said flange, and means to continuously rotate said shuttle at a variable speed, substantially as described.

23. In asole-sewing machine, a fixed support, a yielding presser having two-sets of oppositely-inclinedratchet-teeth upon its bar, a pawl-carrier having a constant throw, twov concentrically mounted, oppositely pointed pawl-fingers thereon, one for each ofsaid sets of ratchet-teeth, and a fixed shield .to

permit more or less of the ratchet-teeth of;

both sets to be exposed according to the thickness of the work, engagement of one of said pawl-fingers with its set 0t teeth lifting the presser, the other pawl-fingerlocking the presserwh'en in engagement with its set of 'teeth, substantially as described.

245. In a sole-sewing machine, a fixed worksupport, a yieldingpresser having two sets of opppositel'y-inclined ratchet-teeth in alinement upon its'bar, afixed shield to permit more or less of the ratchet-teeth to, be exposed according to'the thickness-of'the work, a pawl carrier having a constant throw, and- .two concentrically mounted," oppositelys pointed pawls thereon adapted to ride over the shield ande'ngage the-exposed ratchet-- 'teethat the'ends thereof, one pawl servingto positively lift the presser and the otherpawl to holdit clamped upon the work, sub

stantially as described. v

25. In a wax -.,thr'ead sewing machine,

- stitch-forming devices, a wax-pot, a take-up devices, to draw thread from the formerand I 50 cooperate with the latter in the'formation of intermediate said wax-pot and stitch-formin g the stitch, and tension devicesonsa'id'takeup, at thedelivery end thereof and near the wax-pot respectively, to maintain the thread taut upon saidtake-up during its movement, substantially as;.described. 1-

26. In 'a sewing-machine, a take-up lever bent between its ends, means to ;rock it, a' thread-tension device near itsufulerum and a second tension device at its free end, to eifect the drawing. oti and delivery'of-athe needlethread, and thread-guides intermediatesaid devices, wherebythethreadis heldtaut on thejtake-up at all times, substantially as described, ".5 i

27.- In a sewing-ma'chine,.a take-up lever bent between its ends, means to actuate it, a spring-clamp near its fulcrum, to bear upon the thread, an" adjustable tension-sheave at the delivery end of said lever, and guidesheaves intermediate said devices, to maintain the thread tautat all, times on and during the movement of the said lever, substantially as described. v

28 In a wax-thread sewing-machine,stitchforming devices, a wax-pot,- a take-up inter-- mediate said wax potand stitch-forming devices,'to draw-thread from the former and cooperate with the latterin the formation of .the stitch, tension devices 'on. said take-up,

and adju'sting' means whereby said devices may be made to act constantly and uniformly upon the thread, substantially as described.

29. In a sewing-machine, a thread-supply,- stitch forming devices, an intermediate takeup arm, a thread-tension device thereon, ad- 3' ustin g means to cause said devices to act constantly and uniformly upon the thread, and means to move said arm to draw oif-thread forming devices, and to thereafter draw the thread taut to complete the stitch, the tension device yielding to the pullof the thread when the stitch is completed, substantially as 'd'escribed.

'30. In'a sewing-machine,athread supply,

from the supply and deliver it to the stitch I stitch-formingfdevices including a shuttle, a

take-up arm located between said supply and stitch-forming devices and provided with a sheave,.and with means tohold said sheave to act upon the thread with a constantand; 'Ineasu red degree of friction to-enabl-e it to'aid in drawing back the thread in completing the stitch, combined with means to move said arm positively,to give up to the shuttle the neoessarythread-loop'to pass around it','-and thereafter to take up said thread, substantially as described.

'31. In a sewing-'machine, a thread-supply," 'stitch forming devices, including a rotatable shuttle, a take-up arm to draw thread from the supply during one direction of its movement, and to give up thread to the shuttle as required thereby in the formation of the loop, said arm having at one end a sheave, and

meansto hold the said sheave to actupon the I thread with a constant and measured degree of friction to enable it to draw back the thread and complete the stitch after withdrawing the loop of, needle thread from the shuttle, com- .bined with means to move said arm positively,

substantially as described.

32. In a wax-thread sewing-machine, a vi-' bratin g take-"up having-at its free end a frictionally-held tension-sheave, combined with an arc-shaped heating-surface against. which the end of the take-up bears throughout its movement, to thus continuously and uniforml'y'gheat the said sheave and the thread as drawn off I therefrom, substantially as describedL I v I 33. In a sewing-machine, a rotatable shuttie to .pass entirelythrough a loop" of thread,

having a non-continuous cylindrical flange projecting. rearwardly' from the periphery of 

